With our eyes slightly narrowed, we could even have claimed
to see again on the catwalk all those supermodels of the 80s-90s who reigned in
the world of fashion starring in the parades of that golden age of the
industry. Some Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer or Linda
Evangelista, whose names continue to resonate strongly within the sector, whose
uninhibited and natural attitudes seemed to parade again, now on the sculptural
bodies of a new generation of models, during the last presentation from the
Chanel house. Maison that, within the framework of the celebrations of this
last Paris Fashion Week, presented its ready-to-wear collection for the next
Spring / Summer 2020 season.
Throughout a parade with an attending public that could be
followed live and direct through the different online channels of the House, as
well as the official platform of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la
Mode French (FHCM), the organization in charge of the defense and visibility of the
industry and of the talent linked to French fashion and of the organization of
each of the different Paris Fashion Weeks and Haute Couture Weeks, the French
firm gave a 180 degree turn about what their collections and fashion shows had
been. A turn that seems to have left her in the face of that joyous eighties in
which the overflowing joy and economic strength that traveled from end to end
both Europe and much of the world, made us think that anything was possible.
A proposal that was made known throughout a parade organized
inside the temporary exhibition hall of the Grand Palais Éphémère, in which the
models, in an attitude contrary to the hieratic expressions that had been
reigning in the current scene, did not hesitate to break the fourth wall
smiling in front of the cameras. Some gestures with which they seemed to come
to talk to us about those ways to dominate the catwalk that those supermodels
of the 80s made a good show off, on a scenography that also now moves away from
the overwhelming environments recreated by Chanel on the occasion of previous
collections, to embrace a much more intimate and close atmosphere, which seemed
equally inspired by the traditional catwalk format of those same years.
Tribute to photography
As the backdrop to the parade, and in what also served as an
example of the message of praise for photography that Viard has sought to
launch with this collection, a portrait of the model Vivienne Rohner could be
seen holding a camera. A black and white snapshot that was used for the
invitations sent to the attending public also shows that fracture of the
fourth wall that has been actively sought to find with the presentation of this
collection, in what must be understood in an act for claiming the closeness
that should exist between fashion and its public.
"Fashion is about clothes, models, and photographers,"
explains Virginie Viard herself in a statement released from the French fashion
house. “Karl Lagerfeld used to photograph the Chanel campaigns himself”, but
“today, I demand the participation of the photographers” because “I love the
way they see Chanel”. Perspectives that “support and inspire me”.
Gold swimsuits and black and white combination that
decide to take to the streets
In addition to the parade, as part of the presentation, and
using the same spirit and message, the duo of photographers Inez & Vinoodh
have made a series of photographs and five shorts starring as Lily-Rose Depp,
Alma Jodorowsky, Jennie, Rebecca Dayan, and by the Quannah Chasinghorse-Potts
model, in which they appear repeating the same gesture, camera in hand. A
"magic object and a sexy gesture, which evokes many memories in me,"
says Viard.
“I loved the sound of the flashes in the shows in the
eighties, when the models were on the catwalk”, and “I wanted to recover that
emotion”. For what the house and designer did not hesitate to recreate that
same type of catwalk inside the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris. A space through
which "a wide variety of very simple swimsuits in shades of gold or white
with black details" paraded, with enough attitude to transcend the environments
of the pool and the beach to jump into the street, as well as different short
tweed dresses in pink or mauve, fishnet skirts, jackets adorned with
multicolored crochet fabric, dresses made of denim, or a succession of
different vaporous garments in black chiffon, adorned by some psychedelic
figures in the shapes of “butterfly wings”, explains Viard; about a collection
that ends up being completed with a succession of accessories and pieces of
footwear, among which some sandals that "remind us of pirate shoes"
stand out. And it is that "I always like to have a romantic point",
but with a "touch of mystery", adds the designer.
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